From Trails to Champions

Labour Weekend came at just the right time. Rugby World Cup finals weekend, and also the end of a second semester of Engineering. Perfect chance to get out of the big smoke, and no better way to celebrate that than with a smorgasbord of trail running in the off-road mecca that is Rotovegas! I drove down with hilarious Australian side-kick Matt Meckenstock, but only after playing cat & mouse to find him on K road amongst a sea of Welsh & Australian fans - Matt was more worried about putting the Welsh in their place and making them wish they were in yellow!

The gang: Ruby, Matt, Bryan, Me, Malcolm, Kristian, Paul, Kerry, Jo, Sarah
 Photo: RunningWildNZ

Saturday began with a 13km jaunt through the Whakarewarewa forest with Kristian Day, Ruby Muir, Matt Meckenstock, Timothy Burrell, and the efficiently late-arriving Kerry Suter. A stirling line-up to say the least. As we emerged from the Redwoods, Green Lake appeared in true Rotorua turquoise blue with the rich accompanying aromas that we all know and love. At the end of the plush lake-side trail we met with Paul Charteris' band of old-hands to the trail game. 

Sublime running alongside Okataina

We were here to celebrate Paul's birthday, from here we would guide us on an exclusive tour of the new trail section for the future Tarawera Ultramarathon 100-miler. The Tarawera race is Paul's brainchild, and is rapidly becoming one of the must-do 100km runs in New Zealand. As if 100km wasn't enough, a new 100miler event will start at Tarawera outlet at dusk, and take the trail warriors over the mighty Mount Tarawera through the night to the Redwoods where they continue the centurion onwards to Kawerau! Sign me up, did you say?

Downhill carves its way down the gulley

The new trail was excellent. There's nothing much better than running virgin trail - untouched, untamed, and all the while unknown - what is around the next corner? Time to find out. We blissfully ignored the "DO NOT PROCEED - TRACK IN CONSTRUCTION"... signs, to later find that at one point the cliff-side was completely washed out. We realised why we'd brought the resourceful Kerry Suter - from his bulging pack he unravelled a length of rope, quite useful for an abseil...

Kerry makes the abseil look easy. Photo: RunningWildNZ

A little yonder we discovered a cool spring, gushing straight from the earth. Purest water in NZ in my opinion, bar Nelson. Nelson has the best water in NZ.

Relaxing at the springs. Photo: RunningWildNZ

After a goat-worthy uphill grunt and screaming downhill with Kerry chasing at my heels, Hot Water beach arrived in view. Here Kerry is checking the map. Something doesn't seem quite right. I, meanwhile, plunged in  without hesitation...

"Hmmm the trail seems to have ended. Better check the map"

At the end of the 31km we indulged in some post-run whiskey and mallow-puffs at Hot Water Beach. To equalise our core temperatures we stood in the rain while scolding our feet in the squalls of boiling water floating in with the tide. Kristian was so knocked out from the festivities that he decided he wasn't up for the return journey, and instead we opted for the boat cruise home...

Proud to be a Kiwi on a weekend like no other

Paul breaks out his Poi Poi skills

We spent the afternoon at Paul's sipping on cool beverages, and eating junk food like every good trail runner should do. Mexican was the menu for the evening, and with that the beefiest-bean-burritos in town! When the sun gave the Northern hemisphere a chance to hit the trails, Paul and Kate Townsley exhibited their glowing Poi-Poi and Fire ball skills for a spectacular display.

Sunday dawned a new day, and we took advantage with another trail run based from Lake Rotoiti. We ventured along more virgin trail up a meaty uphill, shaking loose the bonds from the previous night, and sending us whooping down the most sensational down-hill sections of the weekend. The photo below is a close representation of the adrenaline-flowing, eye-watering action as we approached terminal cadence. 

Blitzing through plush trail

Once we'd recovered from that buzz, we found ourselves in a clearing - a forest ampitheatre - where our calls of TAAA- RAAA- WERAAA echoed for miles around. 

Gazing out over Lake Okataina

From Okataina we were treated to more glorious lake-side running towards Humphries Bay. At one stage our enthusiasm was too much for a young family out tramping, as we flew past on one tight corner. "Sorry!"

Kristian and Ruby pacing along to Humphries Bay

Running with All Blacks flag flapping proudly

Returning around the western side of Lake Okataina was a tough ordeal. The legs were now feeling the toll of two long runs back to back, and an insatiable was too much even for Al's Powerbars, the energy-packed bars fell helplessly into a pit of endless hunger. Matt Meckenstock was feeling it too. Kristian Day and Ruby Muir meanwhile were flying ahead on their Leppin & Plum lined stomachs. Millar Road did eventually materialise, and with it a bunch of grapes - swallowed whole.

Lake Okataina

After the almighty effort, we didn't waste time driving back to Auckland just in time to witness the All Blacks become World Champions against the threatening Français... From Trails - to Champions.

Champions of the WORLD
photo: http://www.ruggaworld.com/

Marathon in the Kaimais

At the Superdune Multisport race earlier this year I won a free entry to one of the Xterra TrailRun events, a series of 6 races at different locations around Auckland, run by Total Sport. At the end of the series there is a grand finale dubbed the NZ Trail Running champs, held in the northern Kaimai Ranges near Waihi. This seemed far more exciting so I waited patiently for the big one...

Full Moon at Dickey Flat - still suited up

I spent the Friday night before the run mentally preparing for the race - coming in the form of a classy buffet dinner at the Langham for an Engineering function, followed by casually crashing the Outdoor Clubs ball. We eventually escaped Auckland and by 1:35AM we had pitched a tent at the event base, and conked out for a solid four hours of quality sleep.

0545, DICKEY FLAT: It was a blisteringly cold start to race morning for the early start. My muscles were almost covered in a layer of frost for the first few kilometres into the race as we set off up-stream along the Waitawheta River, a jewel of the Kaimais. Waihi is famous for its mining history, so the Kaimais are full with evidence of the gold-rush culture, all adding to the atmosphere of the race.

The Marathon field at the briefing

Captain Yakuta Nakimori (otherwise known as Kristian Day) didn't waste time this morning - as soon as he'd seized control over my bag of Leppin gels, he took off into the lead. It was a fun forty-five seconds while it lasted. While Kristian surged ahead, I found my pace with Australian trail runner Matt Meckenstock. We didn't need much introduction, Matt was a great dude to run with. He kept us entertained with bird calls - a man of the land - and also a few bails into the river. Local veteran Clive Reynolds also held us to a solid pace, so we stuck together as a pack of three.

Liquid Mountaineering - credit: RunningWild NZ

I found myself struggling to keep up at times with these two, especially over the rugged farmland sections. I would blitz the rooty downhills to catch up, only to slowly drop away... things weren't looking good only 15km in. A faceful of chocolate cake and a dunk in one of the river crossings sorted me out, the adrenaline kicked in, and we stuck together as a unit of three through to end of the 23km section, clocking in at 2:42. Unfortunately I was too distracted by the crowd fanfare to grab myself a sausage at Dickey Flat, so I left feeling a tinge of regret. I'd have to satisfy myself with more warm chocolate cake to fuel the ongoing effort. I took the opportunity through the dark gold-mining tunnels to fill up - with my face in the bag of cake and Vogels I was protected from cracking my head on the rocky roof.

Marathon 42.2km route - start & finish at Dickey Flat road end

The Karangahake Gorge track was a stunner - if it wasn't a race I'd have been tempted to take a leap into the river - now 10am, the sun was blazing. We dodged and side stepped the hundreds of short coursers that had just been released, all adding to the fun. More people out enjoying the trails the better!

At the base of the climb to Mt Karangahake I unvolunteerily decided to make my break on Matt and Clive, who had been fantastic company. If I was going to gain on Kristian, it was make or break. I kept a steady jog up the climb despite feeling pretty smashed, pulled on by the endless supply of mid-courses needing to be overtaken. With one eye over my shoulder to check that Matt wasn't planning a comeback, I pushed hard around the mountain to the point of dizziness up muddy hills and through vine-infested trails. But once I turned off for the final downhill to the finish, my worries vanished. I let go with a second wind, and emptied the tank down the twisting single track for a glorious finish at Dickey Flat. Golden.

Finish line in sight - credit: PhotoSales

I ran the finishing chute with mates Ben Duggan and Adam Clayton; both had just finished their debut trail race in the 19km and loving it. My final time was 4:45, so this ranks as my hardest and longest race yet. It turns out I gained 25 minutes on Matt Meckenstock in the final 15km - he later told me that he didn't realise I'd gapped until 10 minutes after, by that time it was too late!The DUAL marathon in March was the same distance, but my time of 3:20 there reflects the toughness of the Kaimais terrain. It was an awesome race and I'd definitely recommend making a visit to the Kaimais if you are looking for some juicy trails, gnarly hills and grand scenery. 

Delight at the finish

The only disappointment to the day was the absence of Timothy "Tank" Burrell, who has yet to release his trail running revenge since a classy sub-12 hour Tarawera run - but he was excused as he was about to clean up in the mighty Te Awamutu Singing Championships with a massive $850 rake in. Congrats Tim.

Marathon elevation profile - 1800m vertical!

Kicking Back in the Kaimanawas

For this weekend trip, the bulk of the drama happened before we even set foot in the hills. From a week out, the weather forecast for a Taranaki summit looked miserable. Achieving the summit of Mt Taranaki in winter was going to a hard enough challenge even on a blue-bird day. Despite the NZ weather websites declaring the Sunday of our summit attempt a write-off, I stayed optimistic and loyal to my trusted Mountain-Forecast.com that gave us a much nicer sounding day... but come Friday night the consensus was rain, and plenty of it, coming from the west...

'Run to the East brothers!' we said, and a last minute trip to the Kaimanawa Ranges was jacked up. Sheltered by his older siblings Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, we would escape the worst of Taranaki's rain dance. Up at 4am and out of town by 6am, we arrived at the gateway to the Umukarikari mountain range fuelled up on day-old bread from the famed Tokoroa bakery.

Once our fearless leader Tom Goodman had packed, and re-packed his pack, we began the five hundred metre ascent to the bush line through delectable native forest. Tramping in my New Balance MT101 trail shoes, I felt an irrepressible urge to break off the front into a run... pack straps tight, weight on the shoulders, my legs were free to shimmy and dance their way up the forest trail.

Lois at the bush line - that was easy

Marmite, cheese and chocolate (in that order) relieved our cravings as we absorbed the foggy view. From there we picked our way across the range towards Sharp Cone. The sparse, rolling ridge-line snaked its way into the cloud and out of sight. Blustery wind gave the place character; this was wild country. At first I didn't know if it was worth venturing into the Kaimanawas, thinking they were just another set of hills... but impressive hills they were! We flew our All Blacks flags from our packs on the summit of Umukarikari, proud to be Kiwis.

A patriotic Aidan near Umukarikari

I now know the Kaimanawas to be an place of inspiration - Malcolm Law credits a long tramp here for giving him the idea to run the 7 Great Walks in 7 days, and so he did it. While walking along the spine of the Umukarikari, wind slapping me in the face, my idea to run the North Island's twenty-one highest peaks became more realistic the more I thought of it... it will happen!

Five Kiwis and a Chilean

Scenery of Champions

Waipakahi hut appeared at the end of the range, and we enjoyed a good hour with the hut in sight before we finally stumbled onto the deck, to smell the fire. Hmm this must be good to be true, and it was. We had no business with said hut, we left the teenagers from Taupo to enjoy their comforts while we began on the great Waipakihi stream bash down river. By six o'clock we were rightfully tired after our crack-o-dawn start, so as soon as I walked across an old fire pit in an open tussock clearing, we dumped our packs for the night. This was a perfect place to camp alongside the river, while the girls put out the tents Aidan and I set ablaze to a ruthless camp fire. The petrol-doused tussock ignited with a blast, and it was a toasty inferno from that moment on, swallowing even the wettest logs whole.

All it needed was marshmallows...

Three AM, I woke to hear the characteristic pitter-pattering sound of....rain...I lay there for a few moments before realising that I'd left my pack outside not properly sealed. Foolish! I scrambled outside to drag my wet pack under the tent fly, cursing my assumption of a dry night. It was a hard task getting up when a soggy dawn came round, even harder when you have friends frying bacon and eggs for you, in the rain, dedication.

Get up Tom! ... but its raining...

Eventually we began our day's daunting stream bash down the Waipakihi river. There was no track but the river to follow, which made for some creative route choices... Will it be quicker through this deep section? Or maybe it will be faster to climb a bank, and bush bash to cut a corner... We trekked through thick fields of tussock, and made countless crossings back and forward over the river on our downstream journey. How good would this be in the summer, we thought - definitely a different place in the heat, with so many ideal turquoise coloured swimming holes just waiting to take a "sweet Mangere" bomb from an overhanging beech tree.

Stream bashing down the Waipakihi

After decrypting the intersections of spurs with predominant curves of the river, we decided we weren't far from the base of the climb to Mt Urchin so we pushed onto the junction for lunch. The little warmth that we had managed to grapple hold of while walking dispersed faster than I would have ever imagined from Newton's Law of Cooling. So we crammed our faces full, shouldered packs, and began the uphill plough to the bushline again. When I say plough, for one I mean penguin waddle, as one member's drenched shorts were causing major chafing issues - not humorous at all on their part!

Above the Waipakahi River

Above the bushline we were hammered with the worst that the Kaimanawas could throw at us, and all the more epic for it. Rain spat in our faces at we charged along the ridge towards the trig - just as the Haka transforms mere sportsmen into warriors, we fuelled our summit assault with chants of Maori mountain peak names....TAAHUUU-RAANGI....PARE-TE-TAI-TONGGGGGAAAAA!!!

Aidan celebrates triumph over Urchin

It worked incredibly - we felt invincible to the onslaught of the icy rain. A few token photos at the summit, before taking off for the finish - only five clicks down through bush tracks separated us from completing our journey.

Aidan and I decided to go ahead of the other four so that we could collect the car from the other car park. At the road end we analysed the map: either 4km taking the road...or about half that by straight lining it through a power station and down a steep gulley. No brainer! We followed some faint tracks past giant concrete surge tanks, realising they were maintainence ways to the power-lines. When the trail ended we were forced to begin an extreme bush crash down the slope, and finally emerging at a road - a quick jog to the cars, and before long we were cruising home after an exhilarating weekend.

Aidan galloping down to the power station

I was impressed with the Kaimanawas after my first visit, but after opening up the map a few more folds, it seems we were hardly scratching the surface. My eyes are drawn to one peak in particular, in the centre of the remote, untamed wilderness. Looking closer at the contours, I can just imagine the majestic 1,726-meter pyramid thrusting into the eastern sky. The Seventh highest peak of the North Island.

MAKORAKO...

Kaimanawa Ranges