Early the next morning with much lack of sleep, we were off to Froggatt Edge for a spate of rock climbing on some of the Waikato's best routes. The Animal Biscuit valley kept us entertained for most of the morning and early afternoon, as I ticked off some old favourites like Moon Base Alpha, Julien puffed up Zoomers, while Greg & Tian enjoyed falling and fighting on Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter.
|Caroline warming up at Froggatt|
|Starting up on Moon Base Alpha (17) on the Australia Face|
At least thats what it feels like when you're petering a metre or two above your last bolt... It was a puzzler, and after trying both sides of the arête I lunged and plunged in desperation: my first fall on lead. Good to get that out of the way.
|My first outdoor lead|
|Riddick chilling on top of 'Hold Onto Your Face' wall|
|Abseiling down Terror Incognito to finish off pristine day in the Waikato|
|The Bridge to Kewa|
|Ian reclipping a backclip the project 21 - One Two Miss a Few|
After leading two more grade 17s, now later in the afternoon I decided to UP THE ANTE and attempt a grade 18 climb - the Muzzifunsta. My ego was clearly inflated, as I scoffed at the warning in the guide book:
This obvious (juggy) corner to face is located just right of "Pretender." Be warned
that although the moves on this climb are fairly straight foreword, there is a
good amount of air between bolts... so be sure you are solid at the grade (or
willing to tempt fate) before hopping on! 4 bolts (DBB)
Paul Henson 27/4/08
I was going well through the initial wedged chimney section, and at about halfway I reached a nice ledge to get my breath back. I soon realised my arms were trembling - I had muscled my way up the slight overhang and was now 80% pumped. Not good. Carefully traversing back onto the main route, I searched for holds and found nothing... Time ticking, I surged for a higher hold, and at once my forearms gave way - I had no strength left whatsoever - scoffing at the warning of a "good amount of air between bolts" now came to haunt me as I fell from 1 metre above my last clip, narrowly missing my rest ledge. *JOLT*. I had taken a decent fall on lead, and only had to be lowered a few more metres to the dirt. A sober warning to quell my over-confidence! A good note to finish a mighty weekend in the Waikato.
|The Ripper - at Campbells Bay|